Interior of car/ECU preparation:

  1. Pull back carpet on passenger side floorboard
  2. Unbolt ECU shield and remove it
  3. Unbolt and unplug ECU and remove it go ahead and put that baby on EBay too!

 That was an easy one!!! !!! This guy’s car was unnecessarily messy I would recommend having a cleaner environment to work in. It will make it easier to work on.

Wiring Concerns

Important note:

Whenever wiring is concerned the pins are counted left to right top to bottom while looking at the wire side of the female connector with the release for the connector at the top. Take a moment and picture that so you do it right as this is the way Honda does it and if everybody does it this way the world would be a better place! The only exceptions are noted on the diagrams that have the exceptions.

All connections that don’t need to come apart for any reason should be soldered and heat shrink to maintain stock reliability as many kinds of connectors come loose after vibrating and being exposed to the elements. Also note that I have used Molex connectors in my installation that is of course optional as they are expensive and in some cases hard to find. I like them because they give a professional look and maintain their connection very well even under adverse conditions.

You can find them at Fry’s Electronics or Radio Shack or whatever electrical parts store is near you. I think Radio Shack calls them molded nylon plugs. Get extra pins in case you mess up and get the pin extractor tool, as you will probably need it. I used the crimp style ones but you could get the solder ones if you like. Oh! Yeah the crimper for them is costly too but I have used mine so much it has paid for itself many times. Or you could use quick disconnect style connectors if you would like but they have a tendency to not make very good connections and I use as little of them in my car as possible. This is a picture of what they look like that I stole from the http://www.radioshack.com/ site. You will find them classified as power connectors.

0.093” Is the bigger of the two sizes that Molex connectors come in and more appropriate for automotive. There is also a 0.062” size but it is harder to work with and if current is pretty high you would want to stick with the 0.093” size anyways. Or you could just use what ever connectors you usually use.

If you decide to solder the connections or use butt splice connectors then follow the Wiring walk thru at the end of this article instead of the following procedures. The connections are the same but on the walk thru the wires are done one at a time in steps to help the less electronically inclined folks. It also leaves the burden on you to decide where wiring should be able to be detached for engine wiring harness removal in the future.

Don’t do things like this! Just follow the directions:

Preface

Considerations

D16a6 Removal

Engine Bay Prep

D16a6 Unprep

Tranny Prep

D16Z6 Prep

Interior/ECU Prep

D16Z6 Wiring Harness Prep

D16Z6 Wiring Harness Prep 2

Wiring Diagrams

Motor Installation

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