D16Z6 Wiring harness preparation:

I have described the process as if the wiring harness was lying in the engine bay as it does when the engine is installed so right means your right when you are looking at the engine from the front of the car. I know it is not proper automotive way since that is the left of the car, but I didn’t want people looking on the wrong side of the car. So like I said pretend you are looking at the wiring harness from the front of the car, as it would be installed regularly. It is assumed that the stock D16A6 wiring harness is removed already with the engine as it is not used and should be set aside. Only the wiring harness that is attached to the car should remain. Refer to the below picture if you need to see what the connectors look like:. 

    1. Remove engine wiring harness from D16Z6.
    2. Open wiring harness loom from the fuel injectors side to the engine / ECU connectors. This is on the main loom that goes across the engine you can leave the small loom that goes to the sensors alone.
    3. Label wires at junction C125 (Which is at the right rear of the engine bay on a 92-95 SI/EX) and also on the side by the main harness. All the wires are yellow with a black stripe so pay attention. C125 looks like a plug that is blocked off you can’t miss it
    4. Cut wires close to the C125 connector and close on the main harness then reconnect them so that the connector wiring is now very short
    5. The 8th wire on the C125 junction needs to be cut off the 14 pin connector and extended to the engine / ECU connectors You can use the cut wires from the above steps to extend it so you can keep the wire all one color. Remember solder and heat shrink!
    6. Cut off the 14 pin connector that is also at the right rear of the engine bay label them if you think you will get confused, but every wire on that connector is a different color than each other so there should be no confusion.
    7. Pull all wires from the 14 pin connector to the other end of the harness
    8. Cut off the two pin connector with the thick gauged black with a white stripe and the black with a yellow stripe wires at the right rear of the engine bay
    9. Pull these wires to the other end of the harness
    10. Cut the thick gauged black with a white stripe and the black with a yellow stripe wires to the length of the engine / ECU connectors and put connectors of your choice on them. This is the only place I used quick disconnect connectors in my install since the wires need to be able to be unplugged in case I pull the motor out for maintenance. See the connection below after step 16.
    11. After all the wires have been pulled from the right to the left close the harness back up like how it was and recover it with new electrical tape.
    12. Tie wrap the C125 junction to the main harness so it won’t move and so when the harness is installed it will be hidden under the intake manifold
    13. Cut all wires from the 14 pin connector to the same length to make the connections cleaner
    14. Build the Molex #2 side B,15 pin connector as per the pin out below

Engine connector (Molex #2) Pin out side B (Male side)

These are the 14 wires from the connector you cut off on the right side of the engine bay. Remember?

Molex
Pin #

Engine
Wire
Color

Engine Wire Function

1

BLK

Ground

2

YEL/BLK

Junction C125

3

BLU/YEL

Electronic air control valve

4

YEL/RED

Oil pressure switch

5

RED

Purge control solenoid

6

BLU

Tachometer signal

7

BLK/YEL

Alternator

8

WHT/BLU

Alternator

9

YEL

Back-up switch

10

GRN/BLK

Back-up switch

11

YEL/GRN

Coolant temperature sender signal

12

GRN

Coolant temperature switch

13

YEL/BLU

Vehicle speed sensor (N/A but there for future use if needed)

14

YEL/WHT

Vehicle speed sensor (N/A but there for future use if needed)

15

N/A

N/A

    15.  Cut off the wires from connectors C210, C211, C212 (In the under hood fuse box, closest and parallel to the firewall), and C217 as you need them to build the Molex #2 side A, 15 pin connector. See below for the location of the connectors:

    16.  Connect the thick-gauged black with a white stripe and the black with a yellow stripe wires from the car’s harness you just cut to the ones you just pulled on the engine wiring harness. If you do not do this the car will not start and the distributor won’t have power! When you are finished with that continue with building the Molex side A connector as per the pin out below.

Engine connector (Molex #2) Pin out side A (Female side)

These are the wires that are cut off the stock wiring of the car to be connected to the wiring you moved on the D16Z6 wiring harness. The two cars have them on opposite sides of the car hence the reason for moving the other wiring to this side. There are only a couple exceptions that didn’t make it worth it to have an extra wiring harness on the right side of the engine bay. Not to mention all the wiring is on one side and away from the drive belts this way. It also makes for less clutter in the engine bay.

Preface

Price vs. Parts

Considerations

D16a6 Removal

Engine Bay Prep

D16a6 Unprep

Tranny Prep

D16Z6 Prep

Interior/ECU Prep

Wiring Concerns

D16Z6 Engine Wiring

D16Z6 ECU Wiring

Motor Installation

Wiring Walk Thru

Wiring Walk Thru Pg 2

Molex
Pin #

Harness
Wire
Color

Harness Wire Function

1

BLK

Ground C211 pin#5

2

BLK

Junction C125 (Run wire to pin#8 and 10 on Molex #1 side B)

3

BLK

Electronic air control valve (Run wire to pin #2 on the Molex #1 side B)

4

YEL/RED

Oil pressure switch C211 pin #6

5

BLK

Purge control solenoid (Run wire to pin #5 on the Molex #1 side B)

6

BLU

Tachometer signal C211 pin #8

7

BLK/YEL

Alternator C211 pin #1

8

WHT/BLU

Alternator C211 pin #2

9

YEL

Back-up switch C217 pin#3

10

GRN/BLK

Back-up switch C217 pin#6

11

YEL/GRN

Coolant temperature sender signal C211 pin#7

12

YEL/GRN

Coolant temperature switch C212 pin #5

13

N/A

N/A

14

N/A

N/A

15

N/A

N/A

    17.  Put the harness back on the motor and make sure it’s secure and installed properly so nothing gets damaged or tangled in a rotating part
    18.  Pull out the left over plugs and wiring that are no longer connected to anything to make the install cleaner.

Now the Engine bay should be wired and there should be no wiring going to the right side of the engine bay at all. The white plug C313 that is ` in shape left behind on the right rear of the engine bay could be cut off and the wires tucked away for cosmetic reasons at this point if you wish to do so. Also then you could close up the harness on that side. See picture below:

Thezcresource.com
All contents of this website are property of TheZCResource.com, except where noted otherwise, and are subject to US Copyright laws