Wiring walk thru pg 2

Next is the wiring in the engine bay. Here are a few pictures that may help you understand where some of these connectors are located:

Step 13 is a ground wire: 

1. On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 5 it is a black wire and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the black wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 14 is the oil pressure sender wire: 

1. On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 6 it is a yellow wire with a red stripe and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the yellow wire with a red stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 15 is the tachometer signal wire: 

1. On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 8 it is a blue wire and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the blue wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 16 is an alternator wire: 

1. On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 1 it is a black wire with a yellow stripe and cut it off. Do not confuse this wire with the thick-gauged black wire with a yellow stripe that was described in steps 10 and 16 of the D16Z6 engine wiring harness preparation section!!! That wire is for the power to the distributor.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the black wire with a yellow stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 17 is another alternator wire: 

1. On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 2 it is a white wire with a blue stripe and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the white wire with a blue stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 18 is a back up switch wire: 

1. On the C217 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 3 it is a yellow wire and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the yellow wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 19 is another back up switch wire: 

1. On the C217 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 6 it is a green wire with a black stripe and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the Green wire with the black stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 20 is the coolant temperature sender signal: 

1. On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 7 it is a yellow wire with a green stripe and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the yellow wire with a green stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.

 Step 21 is the coolant temperature switch: 

1. On the C217 connector of the car's wiring harness next to the strut
   tower and fuse box locate pin # 5 it is a yellow wire with a green stripe
   and cut it off.
2. Connect the wire you cut off to the green wire from the 14 wires
   you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness

 Step 22 is the vehicle speed sensor wiring: 

1. These wires are not needed!!! They are the two wires left from the 14 your pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness. One is a yellow wire with a blue stripe and the other is yellow with a white stripe.
2. You could cut them off or leave them or burn them or whatever you want as you do not need them since you are using the vehicle speed sensor from the gauge cluster to tell the ECU how fast the car is traveling. That is why you must have the speedometer drive cable installed correctly or no VTEC and a code 17 for you to cry about. I went ahead and built them into only one side of the Molex connector in my car so they would be there if I decided to do anything with them in the future. Although I have had no use for them to date and probably never will I’m sure.

 Step 23 is to copy steps 10 and 16 from the D16Z6 engine wiring harness section. It may be necessary to read some of the other steps to understand what is going on if you become confused.

 That should do it for the wiring portion. Are you still wanting to do the swap? I hope so it isn’t as hard as it was to right this article that’s for sure! Good luck and have fun!